Smoothie
industry goes on health kick
By ELIZABETH M. GILLESPIE - Associated Press
| Saturday, April 5, 2008
When Anne Kessler strolls to her neighborhood smoothie shop,
she's looking for a treat. Her usual: the Mocha Bliss, one
of the more indulgent items on the menu at Emerald City
Smoothie.
"It
just tastes good," she said, sipping down a tall one
on a recent afternoon.
But
for her 2-year-old daughter, Kessler will order only from
the low-sugar menu, usually a banana-strawberry-papaya concoction
that has less than half the calories as her chocolatey favorite.
Once
frequented mostly by avid health nuts, juice and smoothie
bars have gone mainstream, drawing in a much broader cross-section
of customers ---- from dessert fiends who don't worry about
their waist lines to religious calorie counters who tally
every gram of fat and carbohydrate.
Emerald
City Smoothie ---- a Seattle-area chain that's gearing up
to expand beyond a handful of Western states into Hawaii
and New York ---- caters primarily to fitness buffs, posting
calorie, fat and protein counts for each drink on its menu
board.
That
goes for the 140-calorie Orange Twister made of banana,
orange and wheat germ all the way up to The Blender, a 1,270-calorie
whopper made with chocolate or vanilla protein, peanut butter,
banana, milk and ice cream.
The
smoothie industry has grown tremendously in recent years,
and chains big and small have are opening new stores right
and left.
In
1997, there were just under 1,000 juice and smoothie bars
in the U.S. that pulled in an estimated $340 million in
revenue. Today, there are roughly 5,000 of them, with 2007
sales projected at $2.5 billion, according to Juice
Gallery Multimedia, a publishing and consulting
firm that provides support services for smoothie businesses.
While
indulgent blends aren't disappearing from menus, smoothie
companies seem to be focusing most of their marketing muscle
on winning over the ultra-health-conscious consumer - especially
those trying to keep their sugar intake low.
"There
are a lot of folks that aren't hindered by high sugar, but
we do know that there's a significant percentage that are,
and we think that number's growing all the time," said
Jim Baskett, Emerald City Smoothie's executive president
of business development.
Emerald
City Smoothie uses Splenda, the zero-calorie artificial
sweetener in some of its drinks, as does Jamba Juice, a
company based in the San Francisco area that last year also
introduced a line with no added sweeteners, only fruit and
juice.
Smoothie
King, based in the New Orleans area, sweetens many of its
drinks with honey and raw cane sugar, but lets its customers
"Make It Skinny" by ordering certain drinks without
the sugar or with Splenda instead.
Freshens
Smoothie Company, a unit of Atlanta-based Freshens Quality
Brands, offers some smoothies sweetened with Splenda and
prominently posts on its menu boards that 21-ounce servings
of each contain less than 155 calories.
Executives
at each company say the low-sugar offerings have fared impressively
---- right alongside the sweeter smoothies.
One
ingredient that's growing ever more ubiquitous: acai (pronounced
AH-sigh-ee), a Brazilian berry that's said to be one of
the richest sources of antioxidants on the planet.
In
2006, Seattle-based Tully's Coffee Corp. started selling
a blended tea and juice smoothie with acai, plus blueberries
and pomegranate, also high in antioxidants ---- touted for
their purported powers to protect cells from the damaging
effects of molecules called free radicals.
Last
spring, Tully's introduced a second acai drink: one with
strawberry and mango that it bills an organic energy smoothie.
Low-sugar
and high-antioxidant blends aren't the only ultra-healthy
smoothies out there.
Jamba
Juice recently revamped a line of smoothies that come "pre-boosted"
with things like cholesterol-lowering plant sterols, soy
or whey protein powder to build muscle or conjugated linoleic
acid, which some people take as a supplement to help them
lose weight.
Freshens
is considering tweaking its yogurt base to add probiotics,
live bacterial strains that some studies have shown to aid
digestion. They're also becoming a trendy food additive
that some claim boost the immune system.
In
general, nutrition experts and consumer health advocates
applaud efforts to make smoothies healthier, though some
suggest a big problem is being ignored: huge serving sizes.
"When
I was growing up, we had 6-ounce servings of orange juice.
... People don't drink 6 ounces of anything anymore,"
said Marion Nestle, a professor at New York University's
Department of Nutrition, Food Studies and Public Health
and author of the book "What to Eat."
The
standard size of smoothies in many stores is 24 ounces.
Bonnie
Liebman, director of nutrition for the Center for Science
in the Public Interest, a health advocacy group, questions
why people seem so eager to gulp down their fruits in single
giant servings rather than eating them whole ---- an apple
here, an orange there.
"The
idea is to fill up on fruit and vegetables so you have less
room for calorie-dense food," she said.
Liebman
and others note that preliminary results from some studies
suggest liquid calories don't register with the part of
the brain that controls hunger as well as calories from
solid foods do. "People don't compensate for liquid
calories by eating less at the next meal," Liebman
said.
Smoothie
companies say most of their customers use smoothies as meal
replacements.